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My Mom, the Culinary Cultural Appropriator
Me, my mother, and my brother John at the Trevi Fountain in Rome, 1972 My Bostonian mother, who died last Fall, was a cultural appropriator in the kitchen, and this was a good thing. Her English and...
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Assa, Blois | A Sublime Restaurant on the Banks of the Loire, A-
The Loire as seen from the dining room at Assa in Blois. On the overcast autumn day I went to lunch at Assa, I became so mesmerised by the mirrored view of the low gray sky on the skeining waters of...
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Why I Miss American Supermarkets
Checking out at my local Carrefour supermarket in France Day three of the second lockdown of the year in France, and I’m really missing American supermarkets. As a food writer who’s lived in Paris...
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Maison Aribert, Uriage | My Last Restaurant of 2020, A-/B+
During the year without restaurants, it turns out the last one I would go to in 2020 was the Maison Aribert, a Michelin two-star table in the operetta-set-like little spa town of Uriage-les-Bains,...
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3 Things I Like A Lot: La Bédigue, La Cuisine Francaise, Tava Hada Pilpelta
Since the restaurants that are normally my main subject here are currently closed in France, food has taken on a different dimension in my life. Instead of dining out four or five times a week, now...
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Brigade du Tigre, Paris | Brilliant Contemporary Asian Cooking, A-/B+
Chefs Galien Emery and Adrien Ferrand @Geraldine Martens After a lot of trial and error, my favorite delivered food in Paris reliably comes from Brigade du Tigre, an excellent contemporary Asian...
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MoSuke, Paris | Mory Sacko’s Exquisite Franco-Afro-Japanese Cuisine, A-/B+
As the months roll by during the second national lockdown of France’s restaurants, I often find myself thinking of chef Mory Sacko and his intriguing restaurant MoSuke. The reason why is that I...
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My Place at the Table: A Recipe for a Delicious Life in Paris by Alexander...
“A flat-out wonderful read, full of the stories and secrets that make eating in Paris what we want to be doing right now. Lobrano has a genius for finding characters at every level of the food...
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Liquide, Paris | Chef Matthias Marc’s Great New Bistro in Les Halles, B+
Chef Matthias Marc Trout tartare with raspberries, fresh horseradish and beetroot coulis It wasn’t until I went to Liquide, chef Matthias Marc’s new “modern tavern” cum bistro in Les Halles in...
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The Seven New Restaurants Not to Miss in Paris Right Now
The Paris restaurant scene has deliciously come back to life after the challenges of two recent lockdowns, and a talented new generation of chefs are serving intriguing contemporary French cooking...
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Drum Cafe | An Excellent Restaurant at LUMA, Arles B+
Chefs Pierre Toitou and Cyril Pham The new Drum Cafe at the LUMA Foundation in Arles is an excellent example of how good a museum restaurant can actually be when someone cares about serving good...
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Granite, Paris | The Solid Talent of Chef Tom Meyer, A-
Chef Tom Meyer Stepping through the front door of talented young chef Tom Meyer’s restaurant Granite in Paris unleashed a rush of memories and also inspired hope during a profoundly testing time....
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Parcelles, Paris | The Guileless Charm of a Perfect Bistrot a Vins, A-/B+
Tucked away in a mercifully still ungentrified street in the northern Marais, Parcelles is a very near perfect Parisian bistrot a vins, or bistro with a special focus on wine. It’s immediate charm,...
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Tekés, Paris | Vegetarian Cooking to Make You Green With Envy, B+
In Hebrew, the word ‘Tekés’ means ceremony, with the implication of a celebration. In Paris, the word now has two meanings–the original Hebrew one, and a second one as the name of Tekés, a very...
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Prunier, Paris | The Rebirth of a Legendary Seafood House, A-
Prunier is back, and it’s better than ever. Most recently owned by the late Pierre Bergé, founder of the Yves Saint Laurent fashion house with the late designer of the same name, one of the most...
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You’re Invited to Join the Ultimate South of France Food-and-Wine Lovers Trip
You’re invited to join the Ultimate French Mediterranean Food-and-Wine Tour from Marseilles to Nice from October 7-14, 2023. I’ll be hosting this trip with Ruth Reichl, Nancy SIlverton and Laura...
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